Sunday, 8 September 2013

Our last night in Northern Ireland


Saturday 7th September

Today’s pedometer reading is only 3.18 k’s ! I’m blaming the cold rainy day and our long drive…about 135 k’s.

In 1949 my Dad was stationed at the Fleet Air Arm Base, HMS Gannet here in Londonderry. We tried to find where the base is/was and found that The City of Londonderry Airport has absorbed it.
We love hearing him tell stories about his time here. He speaks about how he and his sailor mates got pretty sick and tired of eating eggs and chips which was about all that was on offer; so they would leave the base to cross into the Irish Republic (the border is very close to Londonderry) and feast on steak and vegetables, no doubt there would be a few pints at the pub before sneaking back into the base late at night.

Last night on our walk back from the pub we noticed a very high fence that looked like the Peace Walls in Belfast. This morning we spoke to the owners of our B&B and found that they are in fact Peace Walls! We had also noticed an armored Police van as we left Belfast yesterday and then two more as we entered the Londonderry area. On further investigation there are two major peace walls here and we’re not really very far from them! We were told that visitors were welcome & so before we left Londonderry we visited the Bogside murals and memorials…


The Petrol Bomber mural was painted in 1994 and depicts some scenes from the ’Battle of the Bogside’, which took place in this area of Derry in August 1969. The mural shows a young boy with a gas mask, which he used to protect himself from CS gas that the RUC used. He is also holding a petrol bomb, a common weapon used by residents to deter the police and army from the area.


The H-Block Monument is in remembrance of the hunger strikers in the H-Block of Long Kesh prison in 1981. The main hunger striker was Bobby Sands, who would rather starve to death than be classed as a criminal by the British Government. Respected by the majority of Republicans for their fight for freedom, the H-Block Monument features the story of the Hunger Strikers engraved on it.


The Memorial to Bloody Sunday…an incident on 30 January 1972 in the Bogside area of Derry, in which 26 unarmed civil-rights protesters and bystanders were shot by soldiers of the British Army. Thirteen males, seven of whom were teenagers, died immediately or soon after, while the death of another man four-and-a-half months later was attributed to the injuries he received on that day. Two protesters were also injured when they were run down by army vehicles. Five of those wounded were shot in the back. The incident occurred during a Northern Ireland Civil Rights Association  march; the soldiers involved were members of the First Battalion  of the Parachute Regiment.

On a more positive note…


Down on the waterfront a Peace Bridge has been built and The Hands Across the Divide monument installed at one end...this is a photo from the internet...it was pouring with rain & the photo I took was rubbish! The striking bronze sculpture of two men reaching out to each other symbolises the spirit of reconciliation and hope for the future; it was unveiled in 1992, 20 years after Bloody Sunday.

We then set off to Carracastle and stopped along the way for lunch in Donegal, it was raining heavily and we dashed into a bakery/café. It was too wet to wander around town so we set off again and happened across the Donegal Craft Village which was undercover so we wandered around…it was right up my alley and there were some beautiful artworks…particularly in the glass artists gallery…some slumped glass dishes, individually crafted beads and framed mixed media pieces that were very tempting indeed.

Our next stop was the grave of Irish poet W. B. Yeats who chose the peaceful churchyard at Drumcliffe in County Sligo as his final resting place, with it’s stunning location at the foot of Benbulben mountain.
While Yeats died in France it was his wish to rest:

“Under bare Ben Bulben’s head
In Drumcliff churchyard Yeats is laid.
An ancestor was rector there
Long years ago, a church stands near,
By the road an ancient cross.
No marble, no conventional phrase;
On limestone quarried near the spot
By his command these words are cut:
Cast a cold eyeOn life, on death.Horseman, pass by!”



                                         His wish was granted with this very plain gravesite.



We were delighted when we arrived at our Airbnb cottage, It’s a freestanding cottage, the owners live in the house next door and they showed us how everything works and presented us with a welcome basket of homemade scones, jam and other goodies. The peat-fuelled heater had been lit and the cottage was warm, it was only about 10 degrees outside! 


We have a kitchen and laundry complete with a washing machine and dryer so we’ve made the most of the opportunity to catch up with our washing, cook our own dinner and snuggle up in front of the fire. Andrew is very proud of the way he’s mastered the peat fire.



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