Another balmy day in Belfast

Thursday 5^th September

Today's pedometer reading 13.15 k's.

It’s been another beautiful sunny and warm day, perfect for exploring Belfast.

Our hotel is very central so we left the car behind and spent the day on foot.

First stop Belfast City Hall. Most of Belfast’s main streets radiate out from the hub of Donegal Square and in the centre of the square stands the vast rectangular Portland stone bulk of the 1906 City Hall.

Statues around the building include a glum looking Queen Victoria outside the main entrance and, on the east side Sir Edward Hartland, founder of the Harland and Wolf shipyard which built the Titanic. A beautiful statue and memorial garden dedicated to those who died when the Titanic sank in 1912 is nearby.

I went inside to look for a loo and came across this beautiful, stained glass and leadlight window completed as part of a millennium project…it’s subject, the great famine…

In Ireland, the Great Famine was a period of mass starvation, disease and emigration between 1845 and 1852. During the famine approximately 1 million people died and a million more emigrated from Ireland, causing the island's population to fall by between 20% and 25%. The cause of the famine was a potato disease commonly known as potato blight. 

Next stop Linen Hall Library. Above the library door I was expecting to see a red hand (The Red Hand of Ulster) but this is what we found…

The Red Hand of Ulster, the emblem of the province is the subject of a gory legend…

The kingdom of Ulster had at one time no rightful heir. Because of this it was agreed that a boat race should take place and that "whosoever's hand is the first to touch the shore of Ireland, so shall he be made the king". One potential king so desired the kingship that, upon seeing that he was losing the race, he cut off his hand and threw it to the shore — thus winning the kingship. The hand is most likely red to represent the fact that it would have been covered in blood.

This one doesn’t have quite the right impact now that it’s painted white.

We then visited The Entries, a series of little alleys between two streets that are supposed to feature some of the best pubs in the city…we thought it all looked rundown and seedy…another disappointment.

The next thing we saw was an armored police van with wire cages around all the lights. Over the next few hours it passed us a few times it seemed to be on patrol around the centre of Belfast...there seemed to be a strong Police presence all round the city…on foot and in patrol cars…we didn’t feel comfortable at all. We headed down to the Lagan Maritime area and loved two statues that were installed in 2009. ‘Big Fish’ has beautiful ceramic scales

and the ‘Beacon of Hope’. Made of stainless steel and cast bronze, she spirals upwards and holds aloft 'the ring of thanksgiving'. The globe at her feet indicates the universal philosophy of peace, harmony and thanksgiving, and has marked on its surface the cities where the people and industries of Belfast migrated and exported to.

Again we didn’t feel comfortable, two youths made a couple of comments in our direction and Andrew felt they were paying a lot of attention to his camera so we decided to head back to our hotel. We went via ‘The Crown’ our guide book said that ‘even teetotalers should make a detour to the tiled façade of this flamboyant Victorian drinking palace.’

We were so impressed and made to feel so welcome and seeing that it was about 1.30pm, we decided to stay and have lunch. The Crown dates back to the 1880’s and it’s lovingly restored interior features stained glass, marbling, mosaics and a gorgeous ceiling with scrolled plasterwork.

It was hard to take photos, it was quite busy so I’ve cheated & here are some from the internet.

We were lucky enough to dine in one of the wooden snugs that face the long bar.

They have their original gas lamps and are just the perfect place for a drink and a meal. I enjoyed a chicken & mushroom pie, while Andrew opted for…yes you guessed it, Belfast steak and black pepper sausages served on mash!

I think you’ve probably guessed that Belfast hasn’t been our favourite place so far…there have been some really lovely aspects and we’ve met some wonderful people, but overall we both have a feeling of unease. We’re having a quiet afternoon, resting and doing a big repack of our bags because we now have 3 one night stays in a row…we need to be organized! We’ll wander down to The Queen’s Quarter again and have dinner in a café or pub.

To finish off today’s blog here are a more few photos that Andrew took on our walk today…

The Titanic and The Troubles

Wednesday 4^th September

Today’s pedometer reading 4.97 k’s

Our 170 k drive from Dublin to Belfast on the motorway didn’t take us as long as expected. It began with a trip through a 4 kilometre tunnel with a speed limit of 80 k’s! The motorway had a 120k per hour speed limit.

Even though we were early we were able to check into our hotel. We set off to the docks to explore the Titanic Quarter and were drawn to Titanic Belfast…such an imposing building.

We had lunch in the Café and then set off through the exhibition. It extends over nine galleries, drawing together special effects, dark rides, full-scale reconstructions and innovative interactive features to explore the Titanic story in a fresh and insightful way; from her conception in Belfast in the early 1900's, through her construction and launch, to her infamous maiden voyage and catastrophic demise. The journey goes beyond the aftermath of the sinking, to the discovery of the wreck and continues into the present day with alive undersea exploration centre. 

The life size replicas of the cabins in first, second and third class plus the lifeboats made it all very easy to relate to.

Can you see me in the ‘T’?

I loved it but Andrew thought there was way too much reading involved! He did however buy a Titanic polo shirt in the gift shop!

We then drove to West Belfast to visit the Peace Walls…since the onset of The Troubles in 1971, Nationalist and Loyalist communities throughout Northern Ireland have been divided by Peace Walls. These large stone and steel constructions were designed to protect neighbourhoods from sporadic attacks and retain a sense of peace and protection. They are more than 10 metres high in parts; an imposing structure of concrete and steel fencing.

There are 17 city walls, West Belfast's sections are the most visited. On the Shankill side of the divide red, white and blue gutters, Protestant, Loyalist murals and Union Jack bunting and flags.

On the Falls side the guide books said that the gutters are green, white and gold, the flag is Irish and the murals have Republican/Catholic themes. We found that this WAS NOT the case on this side of the walls. Yes there were murals on this side of the walls but none of the flags, memorial sites etc.

We crossed from one side to the other via access roads at Lanark Way and Northumberland Street. There are heavy-duty gates along these roads…

These roads close in times of heightened tension but we were told that during September we’d be safe. July, the marching season is a time when the Troubles can become a problem.

We’ve heard several references to The Troubles on the radio and are very pleased we’re not here in July.

After a little rest we headed off to The Queen’s Quarter for dinner where there was a tempting array of cafes, restaurants and pubs to choose from. We decided on a restaurant and really enjoyed our meal. Andrew went up to pay for the meal and soon struck up a conversation with the owner…I went and joined the conversation…t was wonderful…he gave us tips on ‘off the tourist trail’ places to visit on the leg of our journey from Derry to Sligo. I then asked some questions about The Troubles, he asked if we are religious and when we said no... he really opened up…he’s in his 50’s & a Catholic and had been actively involved in The Troubles…he gave us his version of the what the problem is and we could relate to what he was saying. Fascinating thoughts and now we’d like to hear a Protestant viewpoint too…perhaps in the next few days we will. We feel lucky to live in a country where tensions are not heightened in the way they are here in Northern Ireland.

One more little observation to finish off today’s blog…in the UK and here we’ve noticed that it’s quite OK to park on either side of the road…doesn’t matter which side you’re driving on...if there’s a parking spot…you can just swing across the road and take it!

The luck of the Irish… a perfect day in Dublin.

Tuesday 3^rd September

Today’s pedometer reading 8.9 k’s.

This morning we set off for the famous Moore Street fruit and vegetable market. When we arrived we could tell something out of the ordinary was happening and ventured down to have a look and found that a scene for the TV program ‘Mrs Brown’s Boys’ was being filmed!

That's Mrs Brown in the pink cardigan.

We stayed and watched for about 10 minutes, it was quite interesting. With part of the market blocked off it wasn’t in full swing but we got the general idea…we were surprised to see fish in trays of ice in the open air for sale…it smelt very fishy!

From there we strolled down O’Connell Street and looked in some of the interesting shops along the way.

This is ‘The Monument of Light’, an elegant stainless steel spire that rises 120 metres (394 ft). Nelson’s Pillar stood on the site of the Spire until it was destroyed following  a bombing in 1966 by former IRA members. During the day it maintains its steel look, but at dusk the monument appears to merge into the sky. The base of the monument is lit and the top 12 m (39 ft) is illuminated to provide a beacon in the night sky across the city.

I love the street lights in Dublin, they have shamrocks on them…there are a couple of different designs.

The weather today is perfect, the temperature is 21 degrees, the wind has died down completely and there isn’t a cloud in the sky.

Next stop Merrion Square…

During the early 18th century, Dublin, Ireland rose to become one of the British Empire's most prominent and prosperous cities.  Dubliners began to build elegant new Georgian homes beyond the walls of the original medieval town.  One of the first developments was called Merrion Square.  At the time of construction, all of the exterior doors were the same color. 

It's said that the writer George Moore lived next door to another well-known writer, Oliver St. John Gogarty.  Both were a bit eccentric and, so the story goes, Moore painted his door green so that the drunken Gogarty wouldn't mistakenly come knocking on it late at night.  Gogarty then retaliated by painting his door a bright red.  And that's supposedly what started the ball rolling.

The fact is that the Georgian style exteriors of these townhouses, by virtue of strict rules laid down by the developer, had to adhere to very specific architectural guidelines - they were all, to the smallest detail, uniformly built.  So, in order to set themselves apart, the residents of Georgian Dublin started painting their front doors whatever color struck their fancy.  They, also, added ornate door-knockers, elegant fanlights above the door and wrought iron boot scrapers near the entrance.

Here are a few examples…

We arrived back at Baggot Court Mews at about 2pm and have decided to have a restful afternoon…I’ve caught up on the blog & we need to pack up ready to head off to Belfast in the morning… so, Oíche mhaith agus codladh sámh (Good night and sleep well).

Day one in Dublin

Monday 2^nd September

Today’s pedometer reading is 12.08 k’s.

Andrew had a full Irish breakfast this morning…just the same as an English one really however the one different thing on the menu was the option of Baileys Irish Cream on your porridge! The suggestion is that it will warm the cockles of your heart.

This morning we set off for Trinity College, founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth 1 on the site of a monastery. The major attractions are the Old Library and the Book of Kells housed in the Treasury.

Both of us were underwhelmed by the Book of Kells. They are dated to about AD 806 and described as the most richly decorated of Ireland’s illuminated manuscripts. There are four double pages on display and they change them each day. I think we struck a day when the least remarkable pages were on display. The entry ticket included a visit to the Old Library and we were suitably impressed…

The spectacular Long Room measures 64ft (210 ft ) from end to end. It houses 200,00 antiquarian texts; marble busts of scholars and the oldest surviving harp in Ireland.

The harp is constructed from oak and willow with brass strings. As an emblem of early bardic society, this is the harp that appears on Irish coins.

As we left the library we passed by this rotating sculpture…such a contrast to see something so modern alongside such old buildings

Sphere within a sphere (1962) was given to the college by its sculptor Amaldo Pomodoro.

Next stop was the Guinness Storehouse and we LOVED IT…to be sure, to be sure. It was a fermentation plant from 1904 to 1988 and is now a seven storey visitor experience dedicated to the history and making of this world famous beer. Our favourite parts were the tasting experience and the final part of the tour where you can enjoy a free pint of Guinness panoramic views over Dublin in the Gravity Bar at the very top of the building.

We had lunch there and then set off for Temple Bar…on the way we saw a Leprechaun! Hmmm yes there are quite a few buskers dressed up in leprechaun suits and also plenty of buskers playing Celtic tunes on the Irish fiddle…we’re yet to see a combination of the two!

The cobbled streets of Temple Bar are named after Sir William Temple who acquired the land in the early 1600’s. The term ‘bar’ meant a riverside path. It is a maze of narrow cobbled streets & today this arts and entertainment district is filled with bars, restaurants, shops and galleries.

We decided to walk back ‘home’ via Grafton Street…it is a pedestrian mall lined with beautiful hanging baskets and alive with buskers and pavement artists. The shops are more up-market and we LOVED the Brown Thomas department store.

We then walked through St Stephen’s Green it is the largest of the parks in Dublin's main Georgian squares and is a tranquil oasis with well manicured lawns, flower beds and a lake complete with a variety of ducks and swans.

Dublin is an interesting place and we particularly like the Georgian architecture…there are lots of posters around of the Dublin doors, were planning to take some photos of them tomorrow…the door knockers are beautiful too and we’ve decided that one of them would suit our front door very well…only trouble is they’re made of solid brass and may be a bit heavy in the suitcase!

No photos...it's Father's Day!

Sunday September 1^st

Our pedometer reading today is a minimal 4.3 k’s but we actually covered a lot of ground!

We were pretty concerned when we woke up and heard very strong winds blowing outside because our 3 hour ferry ride to Dublin today could be really rocking and rolling if it’s windy.

Although it’s not Father’s Day here in the UK Adam & Peta both spoke to Andrew this morning and wished him a Happy Father’s Day :-) I couldn’t speak to my dad because he and mum were out and about all afternoon and evening…they are such social butterflies! We have been talking to them on Skype most days so we’ll catch up again tomorrow.

After breakfast we set the GPS for Holyhead in Wales, only 75 k’s away. We started out travelling under the Mersey River through a 3 kilometre tunnel. We’re hoping that there won’t be so many roundabouts in Wales and Ireland…England has a huge number of them just like the ones at home but some of them are huge and believe it or not some of them even have traffic lights installed!

It was a lovely drive along the north coast of Wales with beautiful views across the Irish Sea and our first sight of the stunning Snowdonia mountain range. In quite a few places the road passes through impressive tunnels under the huge mountains…we look forward to exploring more of Wales when we return from Ireland.

We arrived at Holyhead in plenty of time for the ferry because we weren’t quite sure about the procedure…we shouldn’t have worried because it was really well organized and easy to negotiate. We didn’t take any photos today but will on our return journey. It’s a roll on, roll off ferry so we drove onto deck 5 and then found a comfy spot upstairs. It was quite a relief to hear the captain tell us that the weather for our crossing looked good and it should be a smooth crossing. It was a relaxed journey…I did some duty free shopping, we had some lunch and I worked on the blog. On arrival in Dublin it was time to head back to the car and drive off the ferry…no drama at all.

I’m afraid our GPS doesn’t have an Irish voice so Howard with his English accent will be our guide in Ireland. He guided us to the Baggot Court Mews where we’ll stay for the next 3 nights. Andrew had to do some precision driving down a lane, then an alley and then through an archway only inches wider than the car and then finally into a very narrow parking spot.

We settled in, decided to use the laundry service here, bundled it all up, gave it to our host and walked to a local pub for dinner. We really enjoyed, the atmosphere, hospitality and food.

Good night all…no photo’s today...I’m sure there’ll be plenty tomorrow.

Another Place

Saturday 31^st August

Today’s pedometer reading is 9.54 k’s

Last night was our first stay in a B&B on this holiday and it was a delightful experience. The owners of Belle Green were great hosts and told us that Beatrix Potter had stayed at Belle Green during some renovation work at Hilltop. Breakfast was served in a small but beautiful room overlooking the garden. Once again Andrew had a full English breakfast…he needed sustenance for the 75 k drive to Liverpool! Before leaving we visited Hilltop, our 4^th National Trust property. We had a wander around the village where Beatrix used many of the buildings and other landmarks as inspiration for her stories and illustrations.

The red letterbox above is featured in Peter Rabbit’s Almanac (February)

The Tower Bank Arms is where we enjoyed a drink and dinner last night 

but it also appears on page 18 of ‘The Tale of Ginger & Pickles’.

There are 35 buildings and landmarks on a trail around the village & we visited most of them!

We arrived at the ticket office about 15 minutes before it opened as suggested by the owners of the B&B. You can’t book ahead and there is timed entry…we were entertained while we waited by four quite mature American ladies (perhaps in their 70’s) who are touring around the UK in a big black van…they were hilarious. I hope we continue to enjoy our retirement as much as they are.

Hilltop

We were the first group to visit the house this morning and I don’t mind admitting that I was quite overwhelmed and even felt a bit teary…everything in the house except the carpets and curtains has been left just as it was when Beatrix was there. It’s just as if she has stepped out for a walk. There are attendants in every room that tell you little snippets as you go…I loved the bedroom with it’s very small four poster bed complete with a canopy. Beatrix picked out sections of the pattern in the fabric to embellish with embroidery and the effect is stunning. There is a fireplace in the room with a lovely wooden hearth and William Heelis (her husband) had it engraved with the date of their wedding anniversary…very romantic. All through the house there are copies of her books placed  next to items and views that appear in the illustrations. The garden complements the house perfectly…we both took HEAPS of photos.

                                           I really felt like I was in Mr McGregor’s garden

After a short but picturesque drive through the most southerly portion of the Lake District…

…it was a very quick drive on the motorway to Liverpool. We stayed at Crosby Beach about 10 k’s north of the city centre of Liverpool because I wanted to see Antony Gormley’s ‘Another Place’ statues at low tide. After checking into the hotel we walked to the beach and couldn’t believe how windy it was and how fabulous the statues are.

‘Another Place’ is a massive installation on Crosby Beach that consists of 100 cast-iron figures, moulded from the artists own body. The life-size figures are dotted along three kilometres of the Crosby shore, sparse in some areas and getting more congregated as they reach the sea front. All of them are looking out to sea, staring at the horizon in silent expectation. At high tide some of them are fully submerged while others are still well out of the water.

The work is seen as a poetic response to the individual and universal sentiments associated with emigration - sadness at leaving, but the hope of a new future in another place.

It’s REALLY windy & we’re a bit worried about our planned ferry ‘cross The Mersey trip this afternoon.

We then jumped in the car and headed into central Liverpool…it was even windier & so decided to abandon the ferry ride…we just sang the song made famous by Gerry & the Pacemakers as we walked along side the Mersey to Albert Dock!

The ferry

This historic port on the River Mersey…once handled 40 percent of the world’s trade but its extensive docks and quays gradually fell into dereliction in the 1970’s & 80’s. Now after major regeneration of the area, the rough and tumble waterfront has become a UNESCO World Heritage Site and it’s renovated warehouses, world-class museums and art galleries are lovely to wander through.

Albert Dock

We spotted this vintage ice cream van as we left the dock area to walk into central Liverpool to look for ‘The Cavern’…can you see someone dressed up as Marge Simpson? There was a group of about 20 women all dressed up as cartoon characters and one with a veil…it was a hen’s night. 

 Over the course of the next few hours we saw several groups dressed in various themes including one lot in very skimpy cheerleader uniforms! I think Liverpool will really rock tonight... tt's Saturday after all.

                    It’s me…outside ‘The Cavern’ where ‘The Beatles’ played some of their earliest gigs.

It’s me again with John Lennon in Mathew Street.

In Liverpool the buskers sing Beatles songs…it makes a pleasant change from the bagpipes.

Before we left home  we watched a documentary about The Royal Liver Building on the banks of the Mersey and that was our next destination…Andrew took loads of photos, here are a few…

Opened in 1911 it was one of the first buildings in the world to be built using reinforced concrete, the Royal Liver Building stands at 90 m (300 ft) tall. It was the tallest storied building in Europe from completion until 1934 and the tallest in the UK until 1961.

The building is crowned by a pair of clock towers: as a ship passed along the river, mariners could tell the time from these. The clock faces are 7.6 m (25 ft) in diameter, larger than those of Big Ben. During hours of darkness, the clock dials are illuminated.

One of the Liver birds

There is a Liver bird atop each clocktower. According to popular legend, they are a male and female pair, the female looking out to sea, (watching for the seamen to return safely home) whilst the male looks towards the city (making sure the pubs are open). In fact, they were indeed designed to watch the City (Our People) and the Sea (Our Prosperity).

Good night everyone…don’t you love the four poster bed we’re sleeping in tonight!